My trip to El Capitan

One week from today I will be sleeping in the shadow of El Capitan. I am stoked. The route we are choosing to climb may very well be a firs ascent. Tomorrow is gear sorting day. Preparation is key. I will send updates and pictures upon my return.
time for bed and dreaming of El Capitan.
Sweet Dreams!

First free ascent, REI Sidewalk West Face(ing)

One week ago tonight there was a light snow falling as I was sitting on the REI Bloomington sidewalk on a closed cell foam pad watching a movie about climbing a distant Chinese peak. The concrete jungle got a little wild.

REI was having a Scratch and Dent sale the next morning. Only the dedicated, only the true in heart, only those with limited pocket books dared to brave the almost winter conditions to get a chance at finding a good- no- GREAT deal.

I put a 32” tv in the back of my Subaru Outback- his name is Dimples. We watched the movie while the large turkey fryer pot boiled potatoes, bratwurst and onions in a “bring tears to your eyes, careful, don’t inhale it or touch your eyes cuz it will burn” hot and spicy Cajun boil. The bountiful concoction of our Cajun inspired creation was ready just as the climbers were getting set for their summit bid. We paused to eat. We were inspired.

I had a great idea (ask Nicole, I am full of them) to film the first ascent of the West Face(ing) Sidewalk in front of the REI Bloomington store. Recruiting climbers was not easy. I offered no fame, fortune or sponsorship- just the simple pleasure of knowing that you participated in something great, something bigger than each one of us. With the packs loaded and everyone tied in to the 10.2mm safety rope, the team set off for greatness. There was a stillness in the air as the snow fell silently on our helmets. Well, at least, I could not hear the snow over the sound of the nearby freeway which seemed to be cheering us on with a murmured roar.

We took turns leading difficult pitches. There were near misses, limbs were almost severed from sharp edges on signs and someone slipped on the curb- we thought they broke their leg. But they didn’t.

I know you are all thinking that you have to see this footage to believe that we achieved such an amazing feat. I can hardly believe it myself. I am sad to say that the video camera did not fare so well and is in need of repair but fear not- I was able to get the footage off the camera before it completely died. We are editing the film now so as to not reveal anything that would make our mothers worry. It will be a joyous film.

We had fun.

Step, step, rock step

The Wabasha Street Caves have been functioning as a temporary dwelling for swing dancers since the early 1900s. Big bands have had a big impact in these sandstone caves and near by St. Paul. There are faded black and white photos of mobsters who visited there hanging on the wall as you enter. If you look behind the plastic plant on the mantle above the fireplace you will find a bullet hole in one of the bricks- it looks about right for a .38. The ambient temperature deep inside would be a cool 52 degrees year round if it weren’t for the ventilation system that pumps fresh air in.



Nicole and I went last Thursday night with another couple, Tamra and Dan. Nicole and I actually had a pre-dating “date” here once. Although, it seemed like we missed the memo, as there were over eighty 15-17 year olds in attendance along with the standard caves crew. It was fun to see the next generation with a vibrant enthusiasm for swing dancing. We had a lot of fun watching them attempt all their fancy dips, flips and sometimes flops. It reminded me a lot of when I started- I took our guests a tour showing where I was dropped on my back from 6’ in the air and where we learned to do back flips off the walls… it was a walk down memory lane- in a cave. I tried to convince Nicole to try some of the basic flips and swings but that idea was shot down quicker than it takes to say “prohibition”. Maybe next time.

I first started going to the caves when I was 16 and my parents let me borrow the mini-van. I was hooked. I promptly went out to Good Will and got a nice 3 piece, pinstripe suit that fits to this day- well most of it. Swing dancing is one of the great pastimes that will make you happy and healthy. It is really like riding a bike- you never really forget how to do it and every time you hear a swinging beat your foot starts tapping.

The leader of the 12 piece band is the same man I met when I first started going to the caves 11 years ago. He has a walker now and needs help getting up the stairs but as soon as he is seated behind his music stand he becomes the same energetic musician he has been for the past who knows how many decades. I should ask him how long he has played there.

The interior decorations haven’t changed in 11 years. The thick air inside still has the same effect on my olfactory glands as it did the first time I walked through the heavy wood doors that guard the entrance. If you are ever in St. Paul on a Thursday night, checking out the Wabasha Street Caves is a must.

Date night!

Friday night Isaac and I went out with our good friends Jen and Marcus for some much needed couple time! We picked the event- Omni Theater "The Alps" show so Jen and Marcus picked the eats. A fabulous choice on their part, we had some authentic Japanese food at Tanapopoo Noodles...I think I got that name right :) This place was great...off the beaten path in downtown St. Paul, right next to an art gallery. I didn't feel like I was in MN anymore- perfect! Isaac was thrilled to see that they had Oolong tea and I got the fair trade coffee. The sushi was great and the special noodle dish we had was heartwarming. The show of "The Alps" had me saying..."these people are nuts!" and told Isaac "that is for sure on the do NOT climb list" thankfully his reply was "don't worry, I don't care to do that one" I'm thinking "YES!!". The scenery was so pretty and made me want to hop on a rail line and take off through Switzerland. How charming. Date night was good!

Blogsledding

Sunday afternoon with the grandparents- what else is there to say?

Saturday morning

I have to say that getting up REALLY early with the babe never gets easy! Isaac and I decided we better make it special and fun if we are up at 6 am on a weekend :)So, we head to Caribou and the grocery store to purchase gourmet coffee and ingredients for a fabulous breakfast. Lately, we've been trying our hand at making dutch baby pancakes (OPH baby) and pannekoekens. We brew our yummy coffee, whip up some great food...don't forget the fresh squeezed OJ and indulge with Eliana. Heavenly!!

Dinner Time

There are few moments in life that are truly and completely bliss. Eating with a baby is one of those moments in our life where we truly experience the simple pleasure of texture, flavor and fulfillment. The food really brings out the best (and the beast) in Eliana. The experience of eating takes on many new dimensions- no longer is food something on the end of a utensil but it becomes something to be squeezed through your fingers and watch the juices drip from the bottom of your hand. Each green pea is not just a delectable morsel but a practice in dexterity, as each one is pinched between the finger and thumb before being consumed in a ravenous joy.

Thinking back, how many memories do we have of first experiences? I remember the first time I kissed Nicole, I remember the first time I dove off a 35’ cliff and vaguely remember the first time I summited a mountain (I was a little hypoxic). But the things I don’t remember are eating carrots for the first time, or feeling watermelon juices drip down my chin after a big bite. For these things, I go back to photos, so these memories are, in essence, stored on paper. I feel honored and privileged to be a part of these first time experiences with Eliana, to see her face light up with her first taste of ice cream, the cringe at the first taste of lime and when she discovered that bowls fit almost as well as hats.

Life is beautiful.

Breathe the fresh air

Nothing like waking up to a sunny March 7th morning and upon starting your car you find out that it is -7 degrees. I had some gloves in my car but still- putting on -7 degree gloves doesn’t immediately do much to warm your hands. Spring is not quite here yet. So this just tells me that I have at least one more weekend of ice climbing before the big thaw starts.
“If life deals you lemons, make lemonade; if it deals you tomatoes, make Bloody Marys”

You gotta start somewhere

Hello and welcome to the first posting! We will try to keep this updated as the family goes about life. I (Isaac) am excited to be able to have another reason to carry my camera and camcorder around- so I can share with you!